SAR PASS (Himachal Pradesh)

     

       Sar-Pass trek is one trek that offers a gamut of experiences and by the end of it provides a sense of satiation. And Prashant Jha, a post- graduate from BITS Pilani shares details of this lesser known trek which lies in the beautiful Parvati valley of Himachal Pradesh, Sar Pass offers much scope for exploration of these pristine lands.

The trek starts from lovely Kasol, which is a haven for backpackers from around the globe, and attracts large weekend crowds; many of which are the city youth eager for a slice of the bohemian lifestyle. To cater to the tourists, the shops are well stocked with both the necessities and with the luxuries. There are plenty of stay options-both budget and high-end, and one can choose from Israeli, Continental, Indian, and Chinese dishes to appeal to the taste buds.

 DAY 1: Kasol (1700 m) to Grahan village (2350 m, 10kms, 4 to 5 hrs)

The trail from Kasol to Grahan is a marked one, following the Grahan nalah. It starts from the centre of Kasol and keeps to the true left of the nalah. The trail is easy to navigate and frequently used by villagers. The trek takes one through lovely pine forests with the gurgling stream keeping company. The gradient being gentle, one can effortlessly cover much distance in a matter of hours.

The trail crosses the nalah and continues some more before abruptly becoming rocky and climbing uphill, away from the right bank of the river. One may be led to believe this is not the right path, but one must not go astray.

Soon the trees give way to grass and shrubs. One can see some fields as well and can spot bright colour tarpaulins. These are makeshift stalls with the smiling vendors selling refreshments like tea, Maggi, omelette, and rhododendron syrup! Rhododendrons (locally known as ‘Buras’)grow in forests that receive snowfall. Theirbright red flowers bloom in the spring and are collected to make syrup. Rhododendron petals can be eaten as whole and the syrup can be mixed with water to make a refreshing drink (I discovered the benefits of Rhododendron on my Har ki Dun trip, where I happily chewed on a liberal amount of the tangy petalsand felt energized immediately).

After a steep climb of about an hour, one reaches the village of Grahan, situated on the top of a hill. Accommodation is available in guest houses and there is a camping ground after crossing the village. There is a satellite phone in the village, and one may also get network coverage for cell phones.

DAY 2: Grahan (2350 m) to Min Thach (3400 m, 7kms, 4 to 5 hrs)

From the camping ground at Grahan, a trail goes to the north, climbing up gently. Villagers can be seen using this path in the morning. This is the way to Min Thach.

After walking for a while, the view opens up and a guide can point to you Min Thach, Nagaru, and Sar Top on the mountain to the right. The trail also becomes steeper and leads into the woods.

After some time, one is in a dense forest; the thick canopy letting in very little sunlight. The slope becomes steeper still and the path is confusing in places; here is where one realizes the need for a guide.

After toiling for a few hours, the forest opens up to a grassy patch on a ridge. This is Min Thach (Thach means meadow in the local language; much like ‘Kanda’ or ‘Bugyal’, it is where the villagers bring their cattle to graze).

To the north-west, in the distance across the horizon, stretch Chanderkhani and other ranges. The ridgeline continues to the east and rises up to a cliff covered in snow, on which sits the campsite of Nagaru (a guide can point it out).

South-east of the ridge lie forests and there is some cleared space to pitch a tent. A seasonal vendor’s hut may be found here which sells tea, coffee, Maggi and omelette. Nearby is also a tap, which supplies potable water.One can camp here for the night; the ridge will protect from the strong winds, and water and other resources will also be near. A trench should be dug around the tents so as to allow the natural drainage of water in the event of rain, hail, or snow.

Keeping one day to cover from Grahan to Min Thach allows time for the body to acclimatize and warm-up for the trek ahead, however seasoned trekkers can also start early from Kasol, break for an early lunch at Grahan, and reach Min Thach post-noon.

DAY 3: Min Thach (3400 m) to Nagaru (3800 m, 8kms, 4 to 6 hrs)

From Min Thach as the crow flies, Nagaru seems not far, but the route doesn’t go straight up the ridgeline; instead it veers up to the south (looking up at the cliffs, towards the right) and goes into the woods. Depending on the weather, one may find snow here. It is always advisable to start early, for the weather is generally favourable before noon and the snow becomes more slippery later into the day.

After walking for a while, one comes to another ridgeline- a rocky one overlooking a grassy meadow down in the distance. The ridge goes steeply up to the left (eastward) to the cliffs atop which Nagaru sits. The path to Nagaru goes up this ridge and is well marked for some hundred meters after which the tree-line ends and gives way to patches of grass and shrubs.

If there is snow, then great caution has to be exercised, for this is the trickiest and riskiest part of the trek-the slope falls steeply to the valley below and the snow may be slippery! The trail, even if marked, may not be visible in snow. Here,having a guide and a trekking pole is of paramount importance; waterproof gloves will also come in handy as one may have to negotiate the zigzags across the steep gradient using a trekking pole and with one hand grabbing onto the slope. An ice-axe may be used by the guide to chisel away snow for getting a foothold. The trekker would also need to employ proper technique-digging the toe of one shoe into the snow, and only once firm foothold is established, putting the other foot ahead in the same fashion.

After gruelling in the snow on the steep slope for a couple of hours, one finally reaches a welcoming patch of flatland on top of the hill-this is Nagaru campsite. One feels to have suddenly come to a different world! Facing north, one can see magnificent mountains rising steeply across the Parvati valley-with the town of Manikaran also visible. In the distance, to the north-west lie Chanderkhani and the ranges of the Beas valley. Down below, to the left, one can spot the campsite of Min Thach and the village of Grahan. To the south is a vast expanse of snow rolling up the hill. It is in this direction that one has to continue to reach Sar Pass. However neither the pass nor the top of the mountain is visible yet.

Though erratic, network coverage is available in some spots. A water tap can be seen near the western edge of the cliff and it may or may not be running, which is why water has to be carried from Min Thach. Camp must be established soon as the winds are very strong and the temperature dips very quickly after sunset. It feels very cold at night due to the wind chill factor and sometimes the winds are so strong that tents get blown away! It is advisable to retire early to sleep to protect from cold and as the next day involves an early start.

DAY 4: Nagaru (3800 m) to Biskeri Thach (3350 m) via Sar Pass (4200 m) (distance 14 kms, time taken 6 to 8 hrs)

Getting up before the break of dawn, one has to prepare for an early start. Last day’s trek should have prepared one for the trek ahead-the same techniques would be employed. The climb to Sar Pass follows the ridgeline in the south direction and is steep in some stretches. The climb through snow, and the high altitude necessitates that one maintain a slow but steady pace and reward oneself with breaks once one reaches the end of a climb.

The snow is easier to walk on and the heavenly surroundings keep one’s spirits high. After climbing up the hill seen from Nagaru, a higher hill that has to be climbed comes into view. A third of the distance to Sar Pass has been covered. To one’s right falls the cliff steeply to the valley below, the ridge is sharper and the climb steeper; so one must be careful. If there has been good snow recently, the climb is similar to what mountaineers are shown doing using ice-axes and crampons!

After climbing for what seems like a long time, one reaches the top of the hill and a sigh of relief and joy escapes as one beholds the view ahead. From the image searches on the web, one would know that this is Sar Pass! Sar Pass derives its name from ‘Sar’ which means ‘pond’ butthe ‘Sar’ is mostly frozen till late in summer. The passis not the kind one would have in mind-there is no saddle in the mountain range to cross.

The view opens up eastward-the lofty peaks of the Tosh valley are now visible as well. To the south extends the white blanket of snow, flanked by snow-capped mountains-the highest of which seems to be within reach. However, it would take a couple of hours to summit and much distance has to be covered before the next camp.

The onward route moves away from high ground, to the south-east, following the contours of the hill. With deep valleys on the left, one has to walk carefully. After some time, the path climbs up to a ridge running across, and one can see a flag tied to a ‘Trishul’ at the top. The slope is very steep in the last stretch and buried in the snow, one may find a rope, which can be held on to while climbing. This is a pass in the truer sense.

As one reaches the top, a the view is exhilarating. After a sharp drop of some hundred feet, unfolds a beautiful valley ahead (This was the highlight of my trek-I had braved snowfall and poor visibility, and my excitement reached a zenith when I reached the top and saw the surreal sight before me!). As one is soaking in the heavenly beauty of the place, a realization suddenly hits-there is no way to get down the hundred feet drop but by sliding!

The slide is the most fun and completely harmless as long as some precautions are taken-loose belongings (phones, goggles) should be kept inside the bag and the legs should be kept tight together and not be dug in the snow if one wishes to slow down speed; for this, elbows kept firmly by the side of the trunk can be pushed back into the snow.

The slide takes one as far as a kilometre (depending on the snow conditions) to a gentler slope of the valley. After walking for some time, one comes across another slope in the valley (not as steep as the first one) and depending upon the snow conditions, one can chose to slide again, for longer than a kilometre, till one reaches a level ground. The third change in slope (steeper than the second) comes not long after, and can be covered by sliding again (if there is snow). The slide will take one past snow covered trees, through a valley that has now narrowed, and bring into view to the left, a lovely meadow. This is the campsite of Biskeri Thach, which is reached after crossing a few streams.

Biskeri presents a sublime view of the pine forests, the majestic mountains and the lovely grasslands. The villages of Tosh, Pulga-Tulga, Barshaini, and Nakthan can be seen in the valley below. The grassland of Bun-Buni lies atop a ridge to the north-east. Nearby is a waterfall that comes down from the mountains that form a backdrop behind Biskeri. There is no dearth of water as a stream runs beside the campsite and there also is a water tap. Network coverage is also available.

DAY 5: Biskeri Thach (3350 m) to Barshaini (2400 m, 10 kms, 4 to 5 hrs)

From Biskeri, a path goes down steeply, keeping to the left of the stream. After some time, one crosses the stream and shortly comes across a plot of land with fencing all around. The trail ends here, so one has to go through the plot (search for a breach in the fence) to find the trail again which leads into the dense forest. There are many trails here and only a guide can tell the right one, which keeps to the north-east. After descending in the dense forest for a good time, one spots a crossing on a stream, with a campsite across. However, to get to the crossing is tricky! One has to rappel down twenty feet of rock with the help of a rope. After crossing the stream on wooden planks, one climbs up to the campsite which has a few vendor tents. The path to the village of Pulga goes to the left of the campsite.

Soon after, one comes to grassland fringed by trees, which is one of the most beautiful places in the entire trek. The path continues through a dry channel into the woods, the descent becoming steep again. In some time, one reaches a clearing in the forest where trees have been felled. The path continues to go down past a fenced property, and reaches a lumber yard belonging to the forest department. The track goes past, following a water pipeline which takes you to the village of Pulga.

The twin villages of Pulga and Tulga are separated by a stream. From Tulga, one crosses a bridge on the river Parvati, which has been dammed ahead for a hydroelectric power project, to reach the village of Barshaini. Barshaini is the last village in the Parvati valley connected by road (a bumpy one) and is used as the road head for treks to Kheerganga, Mantalai Lake, Pin Parvati Pass and for treks in the Tosh valley. One can get buses or taxis to Kasol, Bhuntar and other places from here.